Mountaineering the John Muir Path is a life-changing expertise. When you’ve adopted the crest of the Sierra from Yosemite to Mount Whitney (or visa-versa for those who’re mountain climbing Northbound), you’ll without end be returning to these recollections of mountain climbing throughout one of the vital scenic mountain ranges on Earth.
I hiked the JMT Southbound again in 2014 over 22 days and saved a day-by-day log of my journey. Beneath, I share my 3-week JMT itinerary, damaged up into sections by resupply factors, to focus on a few of my favourite viewpoints, campsites, swimming holes, and lunch spots.
In 2023, BFT contributor Mary of The Blonde Coyote added some extra suggestions and perception from her 2020 JMT Northbound thru-hike. We hope these first-hand accounts provide you with a glimpse of what life on the JMT is like – comfortable trails!
Necessary Reminder: Because it goes in the entire locations we share, please follow good path etiquette and bear in mind to Depart No Hint. This implies packing out your entire rubbish (together with bathroom paper), being respectful to others on busy trails, and following the established guidelines.
Part 1: Yosemite Nationwide Park to Purple’s Meadow
Day 1 – Yosemite Valley (Mile 0) to Little Yosemite Valley Backpackers Camp (Mile 4.8)
The John Muir Path historically begins on the Glad Isles Trailhead in Yosemite Valley and shortly good points 2,000 vertical ft over the primary 4 miles, passing a number of epic waterfalls and vistas. With a heavy bag and leaden legs, this can be a powerful climb regardless that the mileage is low.
Round 5 miles in, you attain the junction of Half Dome, a Yosemite icon. When you’re particularly match and bold, you possibly can attempt to safe a separate allow to summit Half Dome, an epic kick-off to a JMT journey. Mountaineering Half Dome will tack on an extra 7.2 miles from Little Yosemite Valley and one other 2,700 ft of elevation achieve.
Day 2 – Little Yosemite Valley (Mile 4.8) to Decrease Cathedral Lake (Mile 17.7)
After a light-mileage first day, Day 2 looks like the primary official day on the John Muir Path. There’s an non-compulsory detour on this part: at Dawn Lakes, you are able to do a 10-mile round-trip day hike as much as Clouds Relaxation, arguably the very best vantage level in all of Yosemite. Mary camped at Dawn Lakes and hiked Cloud’s Relaxation on the finish of her NOBO journey in 2020 and extremely recommends this detour.
When you’re skipping Clouds Relaxation, head onward to Cathedral Lakes on Day 2.
First, we checked out Higher Cathedral Lake which is correct on the path. It’s a beautiful spot, however we couldn’t discover a appropriate campsite. So we saved going and took the 0.75 mile detour off the path at mile 17.1 to get to Decrease Cathedral Lake. This ended up being the BEST choice, and we discovered an incredible campsite on a degree on the north aspect of the lake.
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Whereas nonetheless populated, Decrease Cathedral Lake was a bit quieter and, in our opinion, superior to Higher Cathedral Lake. Proper at our campsite there was a seaside for solar tanning and a rock in the midst of the lake that wasn’t too far to swim to. Additionally, because the solar set, Cathedral Peak fashioned a shocking reflection within the water, and we had the very best viewpoint of all the lake.
One other tip – when you have further time, stroll out to the northwest fringe of the lake the place you’ll discover a a wide-open view of Tenaya Lake.
Day 3 – Decrease Cathedral Lake (Mile 17.7) to Lyell Canyon (Mile 31)
Waking as much as a beautiful dawn, the morning reflection of Cathedral Peak was much more good than the sundown the night time earlier than, confirming Higher Cathedral Lake as one among my favourite spots throughout our first week on the JMT.
After packing up, we made our method to Tuolumne Meadows. There’s a Basic Retailer and restaurant the place you should buy meals and provides and in addition seize a meal if you’re so inclined. That is additionally the final place that there’s any cell service till Purple’s Meadows in case it’s good to telephone house.
*Observe that in 2023 the Tuolumne Meadows Campground will likely be closed and companies in 2023 could also be restricted. Double test on the Yosemite Nationwide Park web site so you realize what to anticipate there.
Whereas the surroundings is a bit monotonous in comparison with the day before today, it’s one of many flattest days on the path, so you possibly can actually pack in some miles.
There are tons of tenting choices alongside the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River, many with lovely swimming holes. Since we’d be tackling Donahue Cross the subsequent day, we hiked so far as we may after which arrange store at a pleasant secluded spot on the river.
JMT Tip: Plan on climbing passes within the morning when the storm risk is low and your legs are contemporary.
Day 4 – Lyell Canyon (Mile 31) to Davis Lake (Mile 40.2)
Donahue Cross is the primary go on the John Muir Path with an elevation of 11,060 ft on the high with views of the everlasting snowfield on Mt. Lyell and icy blue rivers beneath. When you time it proper, there have been some wonderful, however windy, campsites on the Higher Lyell Base Camp (mile 34.4).
After Donahue Cross, many individuals attempt to make it to Thousand Island Lake or Garnett Lake to camp for the night time. These spectacular lakes had been a few of Ansel Adam’s favorites, and for that motive, they will draw crowds. After 4 days of busy trails in Yosemite, we had been in search of some solitude, so at mile 40.2, we took a mile-long detour to Davis Lake. We discovered a phenomenal secluded lake, fabricated from a sequence of islands and had been handled to a colorfully pink sundown.
Tenting Tip: When you resolve to move to Davis Lake, keep on with the periphery when in search of a campsite. Regardless of being small, the maze of islands is straightforward to get misplaced in. Within the morning it took us 45 minutes of rock hopping simply to get again to the trailhead. It was not the easiest way to start out the day.
Day 5 – Davis Lake (Mile 40.2) to Lake Ediza Junction (Mile 48.4)
Day 5 was full of beautiful lakes and numerous locations to swim. We deliberate to cease at Thousand Island Lake for lunch, however after we arrived, it appeared that many different hikers had the identical concept. Alternatively, we took a swim/lunch break at Emerald Lake, which was simply 1.5 miles up the path. Whereas not as spectacular as Thousand Island, we had the lake all to ourselves.
Shortly thereafter, we stumbled upon Ruby Lake, which had two campsites on the east aspect of the lake proper alongside the path. With the distinction of the blue water towards the purple mountains, Ruby Lake would have been a beautiful place to swim or camp.
Garnet Lake was additionally lovely, however busy, with views of each Banner and Ritter Peaks. A seaside on the southeast aspect allowed for a straightforward method for swimmers and offered an ideal spot to solar afterward.
After you allow these lakes, you climb a sequence of switchbacks after which drop again all the way down to the Ediza Lake Junction. We discovered a sunny spot all to ourselves to arrange camp on the south tip of the path proper alongside Shadow Creek. Late within the afternoon, that is the final place on the path the place you will notice any solar, and for my part, solar is a crucial part of any good camp.
When Mary hiked the JMT in 2020, she took the Minaret Lake Loop, leaving the JMT at Johnston Meadow and rejoining it at Ediza Lake Junction. This detour off the JMT doesn’t add vital mileage and brings you proper to the bottom of the long-lasting spikey skyline of the Minarets, passing a number of beautiful lakes with nice campsites alongside the best way.
Day 6 – Lake Ediza Junction (Mile 48.4) to Learn’s Meadow (Mile 59.9)
Shortly previous the Lake Ediza Junction, you come throughout Shadow Lake. We had been fortunate to hit it at simply the best time within the morning when the mountains mirrored off the water.
My favourite spot of the day was Rosalie Lake. Proper beneath the path, we discovered some massive flat rocks the place we stopped for snacks and images. That is the final good place that you’ll come throughout earlier than Purple’s Meadow, so make certain to soak all of it in.
The one different appropriate spot for lunch is Trinity Lakes at mile 52.7, however don’t anticipate to swim right here as a result of it’s very marshy and buggy.
The remaining portion of the path resulting in Satan’s Postpile is all downhill and travels by means of a big forest filled with useless bushes. It’s quite disagreeable in comparison with the surroundings over the previous 6 days, so we booked it to Satan’s Postpile Nationwide Monument.
When you get to Satan’s Postpile, you’ll begin to see indicators of civilization, together with automobiles and roads. It can really feel unusual, but it surely’s value a fast cease to see the monument itself.
The one place to camp within the space is on the established Reds Meadow Forest Service campground. It prices $22 an evening for a web site, nevertheless, it’s tremendous handy to the “Resort” the place you’ll decide up your resupply field, and you can too purchase an ice-cold beverage. There are bear lockers within the campground, which is useful after the resupply since your bear field will seemingly be fairly full that night time. There’s additionally a concrete-enclosed scorching spring within the campground. It’s small and chances are you’ll want to attend your flip however feels wonderful on drained muscle tissues and sore ft.
The surroundings up till this level on the JMT was magnificent, but it surely was additionally essentially the most crowded. As we continued south, the crowds thinned out and it started to really feel like true wilderness.
Part 2: Purple’s Meadow to Muir Path Ranch
Day 7 – Purple’s Meadow (Mile 60) to Duck Cross Junction (Mile 70.5)
To not begin on a low be aware, however I need to mentally put together you for at the present time. There’s no great way of placing it… this stretch between Reds Meadow and Duck Cross Junction was simply terrible. Everybody we met on the path agreed. First, your pack is about 10 kilos heavier than the day earlier than due to your resupply at Reds Meadow. However what’s worse is that after leaving Reds Meadow, you start the day by traversing by means of a burn space the place the bushes are useless and there may be completely no shade. I’d advocate getting an early begin so you possibly can keep away from getting caught within the blazing solar (one more reason why tenting at Reds Meadow the night time earlier than is a good suggestion).
We initially talked about tenting at Deer Creek, however after we arrived, the stream was nothing greater than a trickle, and it was nonetheless early within the afternoon. Therefore, we saved trucking.
There are only a few stretches alongside the JMT the place there isn’t any water and the 4.5-mile part between Deer Creek and the Duck Cross Junction is one among them, so make certain to replenish earlier than persevering with uphill.
As we acquired nearer to our vacation spot, we had been handled to occasional views of the Silver Divide. It’s the one factor that saved me going with the enduring twinge I used to be feeling in between my shoulder blades.
After we lastly arrived on the creek at Duck Cross Junction, we discovered a pleasant place to arrange our tent just under the path on the west aspect of the creek.
Day 8 – Duck Cross Junction (Mile 70.5) to Fish Creek (Mile 77.5)
After the day before today, we would have liked a bit pick-me-up. We had learn in our guidebook that Lake Virginia, 4 miles up the path, was heavenly. So we hit the path, first coming to Purple Lake. For many who have some stamina left in them the day earlier than, Purple Lake appeared to have some fairly good campsites. Mary camped at Purple Lake in 2020 and was handled to among the best sunsets of her journey.
We arrived at Lake Virginia round lunchtime. We determined to observe a aspect path that veered off to the west aspect of the lake and located an ideal spot to arrange store for just a few hours.
We frolicked for a few hours, and round 2:30 we agreed it was time to maneuver on. As we descended the switchbacks down into Tully Gap, I started to assume that we made a giant mistake not tenting at Lake Virginia. Despite the fact that it was fairly, the entire campsites we handed on Fish Creek had been shady and chilly. Ultimately, we noticed some solar on the opposite aspect of the creek and located a secure place to cross. After mulling about for some time, we settled on a campsite. It was good, but it surely was no Lake Virginia.
Day 9 – Fish Creek (Mile 77.5) to Quail Meadows (Mile 88)
Right now we tackled Silver Cross. The climb to the highest was fairly straightforward in comparison with among the different passes on the path. However take your time getting there, as there are a number of lovely lakes on the best way.
My favourite lake of Day 9 was Chief Lake which is correct on the timberline beneath Silver Cross. The dramatic views and aquamarine water made it a fantastic place to cease for lunch earlier than making the final uphill push.
Between Chief Lake and Silver Cross, you can be utterly above the treeline. As you ascend the barren panorama, you’ll get sweeping views of the lakes beneath and the mountains the place you spent the final a number of days.
Touring south from Silver Cross, you head down alongside the North Fork of Mono Creek. There are various shady campsites alongside the best way. Our objective was to make it near Quail Meadows since we needed to tackle the upcoming 2,000 foot climb to Bear Ridge very first thing the subsequent morning when our legs had been contemporary.
Quail Meadows is situated on the Lake Edison Junction which is the path you’d take for those who had been planning to cease and resupply at Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR). We skipped VVR as a result of it required a little bit of maneuvering to get there – a mix of mountain climbing, a ferry, and/or a jeep experience. Plus, we had been all fueled up with our provides from our go to to Reds Meadow just a few days prior.
Due to its shut proximity to VVR, Quail Meadows was a preferred camp spot for JMT hikers. To keep away from the crowds, we settled on a web site simply north of Quail Meadows that was harking back to an previous cowboy camp and had easy accessibility to some good haunt spots on the creek. To seek out this big campsite, veer left off the path simply above the intersection of the North Fork with Mono Creek.
Day 10 – Quail Meadow (Mile 88) to Bear Creek (Mile 96.3)
Our day began with a 4 mile mild climb up a sequence of switchbacks to the highest of Bear Ridge. If you’re drained once you get to the highest, cease for snacks, however don’t be tempted to take your lunch break right here. A number of the greatest swimming holes on the path are only a quick method forward.
After reaching the highest, you’ll drop all the way down to the Bear Creek Junction, the place the path begins to run parallel to Bear Creek for the subsequent two miles.
Whereas our lunch spot was beautiful, we discovered that the additional we acquired alongside Bear Creek, the higher the swimming alternatives. After we turned a nook round mile 95, we stopped useless in our tracks after we got here throughout a protracted straightaway within the river with a cascading waterfall filled with calm, clear, and deep swimming holes.
A few mile later, we stumbled upon one other idyllic sequence of swimming pools. May we go these ones up too? Neither of us took a lot convincing. We instantly threw our baggage down, the place we’d later arrange camp. This spot within the river had some big flat boulders forming a sequence of waterfalls. For the reason that water was low, you possibly can stroll proper out onto the granite and sit in the midst of the waterfalls. It was heavenly. We had been grateful to say goodbye to our earlier guilt and spent the remainder of the afternoon basking within the glistening solar. This was 100% my favourite camp from the second part of the JMT.
Day 11 – Bear Creek (Mile 96.3) to Muir Path Ranch (Mile 108)
Marie Lake is dotted with granite islands and presents very good views of the encircling mountains. Sitting at 10,500 ft, there are a number of small, sandy, and uncovered campsites alongside the path. It was windy after we got here by means of, however I think about on a peaceful night time, this might be an incredible spot to camp.
Subsequent up was Seldon Cross, which was solely 500 extra ft above Marie Lake. Be sure that to benefit from the wide-open views of Marie Lake and Silver Cross as you climb.
As soon as you’re over Seldon, you first drop all the way down to Coronary heart Lake after which Sallie Keyes Lakes. We stopped for lunch on the north finish of Sallie Keys. Nonetheless, if it’s a heat day, I like to recommend heading to the southern fringe of the lake the place there seemed to be good swimming with easy accessibility.
Our authentic plan was to cease at Sallie Keys and camp for the night time, but it surely was a windy day and since we made such good time, we set off for Muir Path Ranch, our second resupply level.
The path between Sallie Keys and Muir Path Ranch ends with a protracted part of downhill switchbacks into a phenomenal river canyon. There isn’t any appropriate tenting alongside this stretch. At mile 108, you attain the northern cutoff to Muir Path Ranch (MTR), the place you’ll undoubtedly cease, as it’s the final place immediately on the JMT to resupply. Comply with the indicators which lead you down a dry, dusty path to the camp.
Be ready to camp with a bunch of different thru-hikers in your night time at MTR. Websites are spaced shut collectively and there may be little privateness. There are additionally no bogs, so discovering a hidden place to go was a little bit of a problem.
Additionally, undoubtedly don’t miss taking a soak in Blaney Sizzling Springs throughout the river. From the MTR campsites, fastidiously cross the river, after which observe the path downstream for about 5 minutes till you attain a sequence of pure scorching swimming pools. They’re small and a bit murky, however the scorching water will do wonders to your sore muscle tissues. This alone made staying at MTR value it.
At this level, we’re nearly on the midway level on the JMT. And I’ve to say that from right here on out, the surroundings simply will get higher, larger, and extra dramatic.
Part 3: Muir Path Ranch to Lake Marjorie
Day 12 – Muir Path Ranch (Mile 108) to McClure Meadow (Mile 119.3)
Two hours after getting our resupply at MTR, we reached the official border of Kings Canyon Nationwide Park. For the subsequent 3.5 miles, the path adopted the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Regardless of being flat, these had been sun-exposed miles. So be ready and contemplate getting an earlier begin from Muir Path Ranch.
We stopped for lunch on the Goddard Canyon Junction, the place there are just a few tent websites, and afterward instantly started the steep climb to Evolution Meadow.
As we neared the highest of the switchbacks, we may hear some turbulent waters operating to our left. We veered off the path to catch a glimpse. Right here Evolution Creek tumbled down the cliff, forming a sequence of deep holes because it cascaded into the San Joaquin River beneath.
As we made our method additional into Evolution Meadow, the terrain remodeled from dry, uncovered slopes to flat inexperienced pastures with Evolution Creek slowly snaking by means of.
Sooner or later, you need to cross Evolution Creek. In excessive water years, proceed strolling up the best aspect of the creek till it’s secure to cross.
Within the late afternoon, we lastly arrived at McClure Meadow and commenced looking for a spot to arrange for the night time. About 5 minutes previous the ranger station, we noticed a small bench on the best with an expansive view of the jap skyline, together with the peaks towering over Evolution Basin the place we’d be headed the subsequent day.
Day 13 – McClure Meadow (Mile 119) to Huge Pete’s Meadow (Mile 135)
After an evening of rain, we hiked by means of Evolution Valley and commenced to ascend to Evolution Lake. The sky remained darkish, however there have been no indicators of thunder, so we saved trucking alongside. Proper as we caught our first sighting of Evolution Lake, I felt a raindrop.
Actually inside three seconds, the Sierras unleashed their wrath and the sky was dumping buckets. We saved mountain climbing, however now at a a lot sooner tempo. Quickly, we reached the northern tip of Evolution Lake. We had been now above the treeline, utterly uncovered. And…it began to hail. Frozen sideways hail. Then thunder. At first, I felt adventurous, however then I simply acquired scared. We nonetheless had 5 miles and 1,000 ft of elevation to achieve earlier than the highest of Muir Cross and now there was nowhere to cover.
Fortuitously, the distant thunder and lightning had been saved at bay, however the rain and wind sustained. We hiked and hiked and hiked. Not stopping for water. Not stopping for meals. Not even the lavatory. We knew that in a break up second, the situations may change and we could possibly be caught in a harmful state of affairs.
Lastly, I may see Muir Hut on the high of the go. We had been not sure if we had been going to have the ability to get into Muir Hut, a shelter that was inbuilt 1930 by the Sierra Membership. So we had been relieved after we reached the highest of the go and had been capable of search refuge inside.
An hour later, the rain seemed to be on its method out, and we even caught just a few glimpses of blue sky within the late afternoon on the hike down.
There weren’t quite a lot of campsites on the best way down from Muir Cross, so hold that in thoughts when planning out your day. We lastly discovered a spot simply earlier than Huge Pete’s Meadow, and in whole ended up mountain climbing 16 miles that day.
In distinction to Kristen’s harrowing journey over Muir Cross, Mary on her NOBO hike loved a bluebird day in Evolution Basin in 2020. After summiting Muir Cross within the morning, they descended down by means of the basin, stopping to swim and fish in a number of of the lakes (enjoyable truth: Lakes Wanda and Helen are named after Charles Darwin’s daughters). After establishing camp close to Evolution Lake, they hiked as much as Darwin Bench, a brief aspect journey that takes you to an overlook of the Basin, on the head of Darwin Canyon. This was one among Mary’s favourite days of the entire JMT.
Day 14 – Huge Pete Meadow (Mile 135) to Higher Palisade Lake (Mile 148)
The primary half of the day was fairly uneventful. Little Pete and Grouse Meadows are each lovely locations to cease and take a break, however we pushed by means of as a result of we had a giant climb up forward: the dreaded Golden Staircase.
The Golden Staircase is a steep 1,500-foot ascent up 50 or so odd switchbacks. It’s a marvel of trail-building engineering and was the final part of the JMT to be accomplished. However like most powerful spots on the path, it wasn’t as dangerous as I anticipated. Simply consider a unending Stairmaster on the gymnasium, however with a far superior view.
We had deliberate on tenting at Decrease Palisade Lake, however after we acquired there, there have been fairly just a few tents already arrange. And being above the tree line, there was actually no privateness so we determined to maintain going. We figured we’d discover a spot with some solitude at Higher Palisades Lake.
Nicely, because it seems, the space between the Decrease and Higher lake is additional than it appears to be like on the map. And the path is sort of a bit larger than the lake itself, so we had been having hassle discovering a tent web site with easy accessibility to water. Ultimately, we crossed a small creek and determined to veer left off the path looking for a flat spot close to this water supply.
By the point we acquired our tent arrange, the solar was taking place shortly. We hustled to filter our water and prepare dinner and eat dinner. In lower than 45 minutes, we had been tucked away in our sleeping baggage and prepared for shuteye.
Mountaineering Suggestion: The Golden Staircase is hard, however don’t be tempted to go away it until the subsequent morning. When you go that route, it means you’ll have to climb the Golden Staircase and instantly observe it with Mather Cross, for a complete of three,500 ft in sooner or later. Mather Cross can also be one of many hardest passes on the path for my part, so that you’ll desire a pair of contemporary legs once you deal with it.
Day 15 – Higher Palisade Lake (Mile 158.5) to Crossing Beneath Lake Marjorie (Mile 158.8)
As quickly as we began mountain climbing on Day 15, we had been going uphill on our method to the highest of Mather Cross. Now I used to be comfortable that we continued on to Higher Palisade Lake the night time earlier than.
The ascent to Mather Cross is sort of a beast. Many of the passes on the path are well-graded switchbacks. They is perhaps lengthy, however there are few with massive rock steps like Mather. That stated, it nonetheless ended up being one among my favourite passes. The view as you climb is simply spectacular. The barren panorama is speckled with sapphire-colored lakes and surrounded by six peaks that exceed 14,000 ft.
When you get to the highest, make certain to take a while and chill out. The views to the south of Mather are equally superior. On our descent, trying again at Mather Cross, it was laborious to consider we got here from all the best way up there. What took us 2 hours to climb solely took half-hour to hike down.
As you get farther away from Mather Cross, the mountains rework from light-colored granite to a colourful, purple metamorphic rock. About two miles previous Mather Cross, you’ll run into the South Fork of the Kings River, which you then observe for one more 4 miles. Wherever alongside right here is a superb place to cease for lunch and a swim.
When you full the primary South Forks Crossing, it’s again uphill once more on a dry dusty slope. Up down up down. That’s the secret on the JMT. However to not fret, this uphill part is brief, and when you attain the highest, you’ve got your selection of lakes to camp on.
Since we had been fairly exhausted by this level, we stopped at an unnamed lake on the best simply previous the Bench Lake Ranger Station. We traveled a bit off of the path on the north aspect of the lake and located an ideal spot for our tent.
Then because the solar began to go down, we headed north of the lake to get an excellent higher sundown view. What was actually cool is we may see all the best way again to Mather Cross the place we got here from. It makes you are feeling fairly proud once you understand how far you walked that day.
This secluded campsite ended up being one other of my favorites on the JMT.
Day 16 – Pinchot Cross (Mile 161) to Woods Creek Junction (Mile 168.4)
Our day began with a right away climb to the highest of Pinchot Cross. The 1,000-foot ascent was one of many simpler passes on the path, consisting of some gentle switchbacks and very nice views of Lake Marjorie beneath. The geology additionally grew to become noticeably completely different as we ascended, with vivid purple hues changing into extra dominant within the rock faces.
The view from the highest of Pinchot Cross revealed an uncovered and barren panorama speckled with a number of shallow lakes. From right here, the remainder of the day was all downhill. We’d be shedding about 3,500 ft in elevation between right here and the day’s vacation spot.
There have been some interesting campsites at Twin Lakes and this unnamed lake on the west aspect of the path. These had been the final enticing spots to camp that we observed between right here and the Woods Creek Junction.
Quickly after Twin Lakes, we handed the Sawmill Cross Junction and met up with Woods Creek. For the remainder of the afternoon, the path hugged the creek with little shade. After we had been a couple of mile from the Woods Creek Junction the place we’d be tenting that night time, we noticed an superior swimming gap down beneath the path. Whereas we had been desperate to get to camp, we had been scorching and dusty and agreed a bit dip would elevate our spirits.
A fast half-hour after our swim, we reached the Woods Creek Junction. Right here the path turns left, crossing Woods Creek on this previous rickety suspension bridge. As soon as we crossed the bridge, we discovered at the least a dozen campsites and arrange camp for the night time.
Day 17 – Woods Creek Junction (Mile 168.4) to Center Rae Lake (Mile 175)
I used to be trying ahead to tenting at Rae Lake and we had a brilliant quick (6.5 mile) day, so we determined to bust it out as shortly as potential so we may get to camp and hang around all afternoon.
Despite the fact that we had been in a rush, we determined to take a fast break at Greenback Lake. The tall spherical mountain within the background is appropriately known as Fin Dome. As we left Greenback Lake, we entered this lovely meadow with clearer views of Fin Dome.
We additionally contemplated stopping at Arrowhead Lake, however we had been so near Rae Lakes that we saved on trucking. We lastly arrived at Center Rae Lake. The path hugged the sting, and we started to scout for a campsite.
There are a ton of web sites unfold out throughout the east fringe of Center Rae Lake, together with a bunch of web sites close to the Ranger station with a bear locker. Whereas we usually went for the off-the-beaten-path websites, this time we selected a web site that was a bit nearer to different teams. We simply couldn’t resist this view.
By 1:30pm, we had already eaten lunch and gotten our tent arrange. Report velocity, and we couldn’t have been happier. We headed all the way down to the seaside in entrance of camp the place there was a sandy entrance to the lake. We dove in and had the remainder of the day to swim (Rae Lake surprisingly wasn’t as chilly as among the different lakes on JMT) and sunbathe. Because the solar went down, we cooked dinner and loved the night mild over Glen Cross and the Painted Girl the place we’d be headed the subsequent day.
In case you have some further vitality in your legs, contemplate taking a aspect hike as much as the Sixty Lakes basin. You possibly can both arrange camp at Rae Lakes and hike with only a mild day pack or if the Rae Lakes are too crowded, take your backpack; you’ll seemingly have all the Sixty Lake basins to your self. As you ascend the two.3-mile lengthy path, the views again over the Rae Lakes and the Painted Girl are astounding. This was one among Mary’s favourite detours off the JMT.
Day 18 – Center Rae Lake (Mile 175) to Flower Lake
Due to the spectacular skyline at dawn, we had a lazy morning and acquired a late begin out of camp. We lastly hit the highway and made our method by Higher Rae Lake and the Painted Girl.
Then we began to climb up Glen Cross. I feel the views as you climb Glen Cross are among the greatest on the path, though it’s a difficult go. The colours of the lakes beneath the Cross had been mesmerizing.
Shortly after the go, we got here to the junction that led to Kearsarge Cross. This was the second we had been dreading for days as a result of we needed to get off the JMT to go decide up our final resupply at Onion Valley. This was a 14-mile detour…and we had been NOT comfortable about it. We had been additionally not stoked to be heading towards our second go of the day.
Annoyed, we hung a left up in direction of Kearsarge Cross and as soon as once more began to climb. As quickly as we acquired these views of Bullfrog Lake beneath the path, we determined that perhaps it wasn’t so dangerous in spite of everything.
Subsequent, we handed Kearsarge Lakes. We heard there have been some good spots to camp down there, though there had been studies of bear exercise within the space.
After making it to the highest, we had been on the house stretch. Solely 3.5 miles to our resupply field, which had been left for us by TK Firm in a bear field on the trailhead*.
Mary additionally resupplied at Onion Valley and liked the hike over the go. She camped on the far finish of Kearsage Lakes, one among her favourite campsites of the journey.
*Necessary Observe: Meals caches are not allowed to be left within the bear containers on the trailhead, however there are a number of choices for resupplying at Onion Valley. For information, see our weblog submit How To Resupply on the John Muir Path.
Part 4: Kearsarge Cross to Mt. Whitney
Day 19 – Flower Lake to Higher Vidette Meadow (Mile 182.4)
After we began out on Day 19, it appeared prefer it was going to be one other lovely day within the Sierras, however the climate shortly turned as we made our method to the highest of Kearsarge Cross. One thing that we discovered is that the climate can flip right away up there. Whereas we had been very fortunate all through our journey, it’s crucial that you’ve got easy accessibility to no matter clothes it’s good to be snug. For me, that was my raincoat and typically rain pants.
We reconnected with the John Muir Path at mile 179.4, and for the remainder of the afternoon we skilled on-and-off rain as we descended down into Vidette Meadow.
Throughout lunch, we acquired caught in a downpour and shortly after we determined to cease and arrange store. We had been feeling moist and drained and with Forester Cross simply forward, we didn’t need to danger ascending within the storm. So we discovered a pleasant riverside spot for our tent in Higher Vidette Meadow and hid out for a few hours whereas the rain handed.
Observe: This can be a widespread predicament on the JMT: both hike within the rain or arrange camp early. On just a few events, Mary hid out in her tent for just a few hours in the course of the top of a day rainstorm, after which as soon as it cleared, she packed up and hiked just a few extra miles earlier than dusk. Which tactic you employ will depend upon the climate, the terrain (you’ll need to keep away from gaining elevation throughout storms), and your general potential to remain heat, dry, and constructive in a downpour.
Day 20 – Higher Vidette Meadow (Mile 182.4) to Wright Creek (Mile 197.9)
I had combined emotions waking up on Day 20. That day we’d be tackling Forester Cross. The largest and baddest go of all of them…or at the least that was the rumor on the path. I used to be a bit bit nervous, however waking as much as these blue skies I had a sense it was going to be a very good day.
The highest of Forester Cross sits at 13,110 ft and marks the official border between Kings Canyon Nationwide Park and Sequoia Nationwide Park. Rapidly after leaving Higher Vidette Meadow, we emerged above the tree line and slowly made our method up the talus path. We had been shocked to search out that sure, Forester Cross was lengthy. Nevertheless it actually wasn’t any tougher than any of the opposite passes we had encountered.
We frolicked on the highest and soaked all of it in earlier than taking place the opposite aspect into Sequoia Nationwide Park. As soon as we descended, the path zig-zagged down the barren terrain with expansive views of the Kaweah subrange off within the distance.
We remained above the treeline for a number of miles south of Forester Cross. Simply earlier than the junction with the Lake South America path (Mary recommends this 6.2-mile spherical journey detour to the headwaters of the mighty Kern River!), we determined to interrupt for lunch. Shortly after lunch, we discovered our first signal indicating the space to Mt. Whitney. It began to look very surreal that we solely had 2 days left on our journey.
We didn’t have an actual plan about the place we needed to camp that night time, so we simply saved trucking alongside. Subsequent, we hit Bighorn Plateau, a flat sandy panorama at 11,430 ft. I’d have liked to camp on the small pond that’s up there, however the clouds appeared a bit unpredictable, and we agreed that staying up there wasn’t the very best concept.
Bighorn Plateau can also be the place you catch your first glimpse of Mt. Whitney. It was laborious to consider we’d quickly be standing on high of it.
By the point we determined to cease for the day at Wright Creek, we’d hiked about 15.5 miles. It’s wonderful how far we had come since day 1 when it comes to our skills. I bear in mind struggling to make 8-10 miles a day throughout our first week in Yosemite. As you go, your muscle tissues, endurance, and confidence grows, and I felt fairly excited in regards to the transformation I used to be experiencing.
Day 21 – Wright Creek (Mile 197.9) to Guitar Lake (Mile 206)
After the lengthy day prior, we had been excited that we solely needed to cowl 8 miles on Day 21. This was additionally going to be our final night time on the path, so we actually needed to have a while to chill out at camp and luxuriate in it. So we acquired an early begin and loved one other view of the Kaweahs, which appeared a lot additional away coming down from Forester Cross.
We arrived at Crabtree Junction round lunch. There’s a ranger station there throughout the river, and we thought it will be a good suggestion to cease in and inquire in regards to the climate forecast for that night time and subsequent day. We had been happy to listen to that there was nothing however solar headed our method and that gave us some confidence for Whitney.
Quickly we handed Timberline Lake and this meadow can be the final greenery we encountered till we got here down from Whitney the subsequent day.
We arrived at Guitar Lake within the mid-afternoon and located the entire campsites had been already within the shade. We needed the solar! In response to the whole lot I had learn, Guitar Lake was the final supply of water earlier than Mt. Whitney, however the Ranger at Crabtree advised me in any other case. He stated there have been just a few ponds simply up the hill from Guitar Lake the place we may additionally camp, so we determined to maintain going looking for these rays.
We discovered just about essentially the most epic campsite on the JMT. There was one different group of two camped throughout the small pond, however there was loads of room for 2 events there.
We had a number of hours of scorching afternoon solar earlier than it began to set. We had been so comfortable that we continued on previous Guitar Lake. Plus, we acquired to spend our final night time watching an incredible sundown. Whereas the night sky was fairly all through our entire journey, there weren’t many nights the place we had an ideal view of the solar setting over the horizon. We couldn’t have been extra grateful to finish our final full day on the path this fashion.
That night time we went to mattress early with the jitters, and I barely slept in any respect. In lower than 12 hours we’d be standing on high of the tallest mountain within the decrease 48 and shortly after that, we’d be executed with the JMT. It was a really unusual feeling.
Day 22 – Guitar Lake (Mile 206) to Mt. Whitney (Mile 211)
We needed to observe the dawn from the highest of Mt. Whitney. We had simply over 3,000 ft to climb in about 4.5 miles, and we weren’t precisely certain how lengthy that might take us. We additionally weren’t certain if we’d be affected by the altitude. The ranger advised us that 2:00 or 2:30am can be a very good time to get up, and dawn can be about 6:30. To play it secure, we set our alarm for two:00 and packed up in a rush. And off we went at nighttime, led solely by our headlamps.
Mountaineering up these switchbacks at nighttime was invigorating. We couldn’t inform how far we’d gone or how steep the cliffside was. The thrill and the brisk air saved us pushing forward, whereas we fastidiously saved our eye on the time.
After we acquired to the Path Crest, the aspect path that results in the summit, I feel it was about 5:30am. We nonetheless had 2 miles and 1,000 ft to climb. We began to get nervous that we weren’t going to make it, so we determined to drop our packs at that junction since we’d be passing by it once more on the best way down. I shortly grabbed my small daypack, some water, and an additional layer. Now operating 30 kilos lighter, we had been capable of decide up our tempo as we raced the solar to the highest.
Observe: Dropping packs at Path Crest is widespread follow however understand that the marmots are eager on digging by means of packs for snacks! Ensure you put all snacks and scented objects in your bear canister and tightly shut all zippers and buckles in your pack. There’s a danger {that a} decided marmot will chew a gap by means of your pack!
Dropping our packs ended up being a superb choice. We arrived simply earlier than 6:30, simply in time to witness the velvety blue sky mild up because the solar rose within the east over Loss of life Valley. It was FREEZING chilly up there, however the dawn was the whole lot we needed it to be. I even felt a bit emotional up there. All that planning and all that mountain climbing to get there. We did it. We had been proud, excited, and unhappy. Numerous combined feelings.
After the solar got here up, we had been so chilly that we couldn’t actually keep up there for much longer. We tried to heat up within the hut however ultimately determined to signal the register and head again down.
Mary additionally elected to get up at 2 am to hike up Mount Whitney for dawn. However since she was mountain climbing Northbound, she left her tent arrange at Crabtree Meadows and hiked Whitney out and again with a lightweight pack. After climbing at nighttime and summiting at daybreak, she detoured to Hitchcock Lakes for a victory swim on the best way down. Hitchcock Lakes, situated simply past Guitar Lake however barely off path, can be one other wonderful alternate tenting choice for a SOBO’ers final night time on path.
Total, the hike down from Mt. Whitney to Whitney Portal was really fairly troublesome. You lose about 5,500 ft over 8 miles and it’s fairly powerful on the knees. Ensure you have sufficient water and snacks to gasoline you until the tip. There are a number of spots to filter water on the best way down. On the trailhead, you’ll discover the Whitney Portal Retailer, which sells snacks, souvenirs, and legendarily big victory pancakes.
Ultimately, I hiked about 240 miles over 22 days, and Mary hiked over 300 miles in 27 days, together with a number of aspect journeys off the JMT. It was one of the vital transformative journeys of my life. We hope this 3 week JMT itinerary conjures up you to plan your personal thru-hike of this iconic path!
Any questions on this 3-week John Muir Path itinerary? Depart a remark beneath!
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